The grand entrance. A port in flux. Old industry, demolition and the latest source of revenue. Open house in the old city. Amongst the stalls and predictable souvenirs, front doors ajar to reveal homespun craft and homemade fare. A return to the temporary tents amongst the crumbling concrete (a kind of crusade). Plaques to those who fell defending the waterfront. A citadel reappropriated (from hundreds of years before) for the needs of the 21st century maritime business.