Entering the port over glassed remains of the ancient harbour. First impressions. Nothing out of the ordinary (austerity). A lot of territorial tags (Gate 7). Red and white graffiti reminding the outsider of which (hallowed) turf you are now entering. ‘Refugees Welcome’ (almost as ubiquitous as ‘Keep Calm &…’) tempered by a later post ‘Tourists Go Home’. Biting the hand that feeds.